Assam laksa is a quintessentially Penang dish which is a Malaysian must have amongst locals and tourists alike. As one of the state’s most regaled dishes, Penang’s version is unlike other laksas you will find anywhere else in the world. The perfect bowl combines all elements of sweet, sour, spicy and salty, creating a beautiful assault of the senses on your palate. Thanks to the tang of asam jawa juice, it’s not too heavy a dish which allows space in your tummy for other goodies. Its tartness is also perfect for diet-conscious folks. However, if you prefer a creamier version, then opt for Siam or Laksa Lemak where coconut milk is added to the broth, reminiscent of the Siamese Khanom Jeen. If you cannot decide between Asam and Lemak, then order ‘Cham’ where both broths will be mixed in a bowl to create a unique flavor of its own!
On a personal note, I have been stuffing my face with asam laksa since I started walking. Having a Nyonya grandmother meant my senses had grown to embrace its distinct flavor and subtleties from young. Needless to say 2 years studying abroad brought havoc to my laksa-deprived system, thus my parents had to make a beeline for the nearest laksa stall to expunge my craving! On special days when my grandmother cooked up a laksa feast, the house brimmed with activity as hungry relatives and friends ‘dropped by’ unannounced, guided by the pungent aroma wafting from her kitchen. My Taiping aunt now continues the tradition every CNY, making our annual pilgrimage for homecooked asam laksa a definite must.
The slurp-worthy Alor Janggus laksa
So I was naturally delighted when the hunt for a really good bowl of laksa came my way. What makes phenomenal laksa? Soft, smooth rice noodles with the right al dente bite, which KL’s rubbery lai fun does not cut it. The fresh combination of finely sliced cucumber, onions, lettuce, mint and pineapple topped with fragrant bunga kantan for extra aroma. Most importantly, a simmering broth filled with the perfect balance of boiled fish, tamarind juice, turmeric, chilies (dried and fresh variety), lemongrass, shallots, belacan and daun kesum. Never forget a generous dollop of stinky prawn paste (locally known as hae koe) just before serving to marry all the flavours together. It must be noted that some connoisseurs prefer their laksa broth chockfull with mashed fish making the soup thick and hearty while others prefer fish chunks placed on top to bite into whilst slurping up their noodles. Well, that is really up to you.
With 4 laksa enthusiasts in one car, we soldiered on for the hunt for that elusive bowl of fishy goodness. Needless to say, we were stuffed beyond compare with fishy broth swirling in our gut. By the end of the day, we were all laksa-ed out and my partner even had nightmares of gigantic rice noodles attacking him with a vengeance! Nonetheless it was quite an adventure to rediscover my love affair with my perennial favourite comfort food. Here’s the lowdown:
1. Nan Guang, Balik Pulau
People travel all the way to this sleepy town for one sole reason and rightly so, with its winning recipe passed down from the original chef to the current owner. I prefer the lemak/Siam laksa which is wonderfully creamy and aromatic with lots of fishy chunks.
The ‘cham’ version (asam and lemak soup mix) is also great if you like a sour twist to your lemak broth. The noodle was a tad springy but it’s still a winner. Thumbs up, the laksa lemak is awesome possum. Don’t forget to order the homemade nutmeg with sour plum juice to refresh your palate and regain your senses from the island heat.
Lots of chunky fish to chew on in a heavenly aromatic broth
"Assam laksa is happiness in a bowl"
2. Taman Emas kopitiam, Jalan Gottlieb (facing Penang Chinese Girls’ High School)
This is my personal favourite whenever I crave for the Asam version. The noodles have the ideal texture – absolutely divine with the superb soup with minced fish aplenty. The vendor warms the noodle by dunking the noodles through hot piping soup a couple of times.
As for the broth, it has the right balance of sour and spicy with a sweetish aftertaste and the best part is to get some crispy spring rolls to dip into the soup. Make sure the roll has soaked up some of the broth, and then bite into it. Now that is a unique way to enjoy laksa, only in Penang!
Fragrant soup with just the right balance of sour, spicy and sweet!
3. Laksa Janggus, Balik Pulau
If you fancy Malay asam laksa, this is the bomb. It is self service so just grab a tray, queue to order and pay ala canteen style. Help yourself to as much mint leaves, cili padi and prawn paste as you like. The pot of laksa is bubbling all the time so remember to let it cool or risk burning your lips.
The rice noodles are definitely homemade as evidenced by the oodles of noodles at the serving counter. Portions are quite generous and there are other yummies like mee jawa, mee rebus, goreng pisang to feast on. Located within a kampong, I was expecting some friendly chatter but the service was somewhat mechanical and distant. Maybe it was an off day, but for laksa this good I can let it slide.
You can't help but take some of this laksa home, just look at how fresh it is
4. Wan Li Laksa, Jawi (few branches on the mainland in Jawi, Butterworth and Bukit Mertajam)
This laksa is really one of a kind and steers away from typical asam laksa on the island. The broth is not as thick or sour, it comes in a shallow bowl with a fork and spoon. I would say it is a cross between Penang and Kedah laksa and its flavour is milder yet addictive. Instead of one massive lump of noodles, small bundles are neatly packed in the big basket so there’s no messy division to individual plates (reminds me of how Thai vendors pack their Khanom Jeen noodles).
The noodles here are the best and the cool factor is the prawn crackers placed on top before the hot soup is ladled over. Amazingly the crackers retained its crunchiness despite being soaked in the soup. To prawn paste lovers, squeeze some over the crackers (prawn paste is free flow; make sure there’s a bottle on your table). It tastes homemade and lip-smacking great, you definitely can’t find it anywhere else.
Milder broth with a wonderful added crunch from the prawn crackers... so addictive...
5. Joo Hooi Café, Jalan Penang
Endorsed by celebrities and TV programmes, this popular stall is definitely decent, though not the most outstanding of the lot. It could be because it was barely noon and the broth had yet to achieve its peak flavor. Point to note is to go when it is close to closing time – you get the bottom of the barrel hence the tastiest bowl of the day!
Unfortunately we were on a deadline, so this stall is a borderline top 5 though the broth lacked the fishy texture. Moreover, we were cheesed with the kopitiam for charging a fee if we were to order the famous cendol from outside the shop. Expect icy stares if you decline to order drinks so customer service ain’t its forte.
Famous and worth a go, this is one place you'd want to scrape the bottom of the pot
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