Out of KL we go for this week's Nasi Lemak Monday...
Think of a sambal that you get with nasi lemak: it's almost always sambal ikan bilis or sotong, and at the furthest stretch would probably be sambal kerang (which itself is often an add on lauk rather than standard). But at Nasi Lemak Nayan, they give you... sambal ikan keli! (catfish sambal!)
From KL we went to the little town of Lenggeng near Seremban. After losing our way for a while, we asked directions. "Terus jo, lopas Pos Ofis tu masuk kanan. Nampak banyak keto parking and Cino ramai tu, tu la kodai dio," said a resident Negeri Sembilan lady. I'll translate: "Just go straight (from where we were) and turn right after the Post Office. Once you see a little shop with lots of cars parked and plenty of Chinese people, that's the place."
So we found it eventually. A small, family run business, Nasi Lemak Nayan is only open on weekend mornings. Even then the nasi lemak pretty much runs out after 9am. So come early if you want to try. The roads leading here are smooth and during early mornings are cool. Great for window down driving or motorcycling.
Take a packet of nasi lemak. It only costs RM1 per packet. The nasi lemak is freshly packed and is still steaming when you open the packet. It's probably one of the most bare bones nasi lemak we've seen. Just rice and the sambal ikan keli. But what little there is packs so much flavour.
Simple and straight-forward but with whopping flavour.
The rice is tender and creamy with the flavour of santan. It's not the crumbly kind but all the better for it. The sambal is delicious. It's brownish but rich and spicy. The pieces of ikan keli are fried bone-in but is fried so well that you could munch on it, bones and all. The overall effect is one of great textures combined with well done flavours. You could probably finish off more than 2 packets in a morning.
This is the shop. No signs, just follow the crowds.
This little cafe is packed with cyclists and people from all walks of life. You sense that a lot of them are from the same kampung and like that sitcom from some time ago, it's a place where everybody knows your name. Except ours of course. But we quietly went back to KL, knowing we've tasted a unique and delicious nasi lemak.
Nasi Lemak Nayan,
Kampung Rawa Ulu,
Lenggeng, Negeri Sembilan