In any culture where recipes are passed down from generation to generation with fiercely guarded cooking secrets, you are sure to find real gems. These are always dishes that are simple and eaten with family at home, often the most treasured of tastes. Ask any chef or food connoisseur what their favourite dish is, and almost always they’ll mention something unfussy and home cooked prepared my their mother or grandmother. This is the heart of Nyonya cuisine.
Within this book you’ll find over 150 original recipes handed down though the generations, many of them never before published or even featured on menus at Nyonya restaurants. It claims to be a complete guide to Penang Straits Chinese Cuisine, and being a Penangite myself I just had to give it a go.
This is a type of cuisine I adore, but would have never thought to prepare, until now. The way the recipes are written here, you feel as though you can attempt almost anything. They are approachable, uncomplicated, and best of all they don’t require a zillion steps from start to finish.
We decided to try out an acar to stick with the chutney/pickled veg theme this week, and a kopitiam favourite, the roti babi made with chicken instead. After reading through both recipes I felt confident enough to attempt Nyonya cooking for the first time.
Acar Huan Cheo (Pickled Pepper)

I have never had this pepper before, but the pretty photo and preparation method enticed me to give it a try. The thought of a sweet sour zingy pepper stuffed with papaya was quite intriguing too. If you don't have a steamer at home you can put a colander on top of your pot of boiling water and cover it with a kitchen towel. This is how I did it and it does the job well.
12 large red chillies
1 green papaya
1 tsp salt
1 Tbs sugar
5 Tbs granulated sugar
150ml vinegar
150ml water
2-3 Tbs cooking oil
200g turmeric, sliced thinly
50g garlic sliced thinly
Slit the chilli peppers and scrape away the seeds. Peel and grate the papaya and season with salt and sugar. Leave to drain in a colander for 2 hours. Stuff the papaya into the chillies and steam for 2mins.

Heat the oil in a wok and fry the turmeric until the oil turns yellow. Discard the turmeric and let the oil cool before adding to the sugar, salt, vinegar, and water. Stir to mix and set aside to cool completely. Arrange the stuffed chillies and garlic in a glass jar and fill it with the pickling solution. Allow to pickle for 2 days before consuming. This keeps well for a week at room temperature or for months in the refrigerator.

"These recipes are not intimidating and are simple to prepare"
Roti Babi (Made with Chicken)

The idea of a thick fluffy bread stuffed with fragrant meat, battered, then fried, is totally irresistible. A delicious sinful treat and I love that I now know how to make it at home. If you can't find the chekur ginger root substitute it for regular ginger instead. The nutmeg is optional, but it gives added fragrance.

2 Tbs oil for sautéing
Spice Paste:
2 Tbs coriander seeds
5g chekur ginger root
1 tsp white peppercorns
15 shallots
3-5 cloves garlic
1 tsp tau cheo (preserved soy bean)
½ tsp nutmeg
Filling:
6-10 garlic, minced
500g onions, diced
500g minced chicken
Seasonings:
2 Tbs sugar
1 tsp salt
1 big sandwich loaf, unsliced
2-4 eggs, lightly beaten
250ml oil for deep frying
Heat 2 Tbs oil in a wok over medium flame to sauté the spice paste. Stir in the minced garlic and diced onion, and fry to mix well. Add in the minced meat and stir fry until cooked. Season to taste with sugar and salt. Slice the bread 5cm thick. Slice off the crust and make a slit in the bread to form a pocket. Stuff the cooked filling into the slit and seal with some of the beaten egg. Dip sandwich in beaten egg before deep-frying in medium hot oil until golden and crispy. Drain on paper towels. To serve slice diagonally and enjoy.
Hey Jon, thanks for your comments. It's a great book. Hope that she comes out with more.
by Adly August 10, 2010 11:54AM
This is more than a cookbook. It's also a testament to the history, culture and cuisine of the Nyonyas in Malaysia. I got my copy many years ago. Kudos to Debbie Teoh and Julie Wong for their loving effort in documenting the cuisine. A must-have for any lover of Malaysian food.
by Jon August 09, 2010 5:27PM
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