Although char kuey teow has a predominantly Penang-Chinese background, you will be surprised to find that it is served in a lot of Malay, Indian and Indian Muslim restaurants too, all across Malaysia. Talk about a 1Malaysia dish huh?

Char Kway Teow is a local dish that every back street glutton, and most Malaysians for that matter, has eaten. Flat rice noodles, blanched bean sprouts, siham (cockles) and prawns thrown together in a wok, with egg and soy sauce and preferably a fat helping of chilli paste stands on par with nasi lemak as one of Malaysia’s favourite dishes.

Let’s get down to hawker hunting. I heard about this place in PJ Old Town (located opposite the Old Town market) that has Char Kway Teow so good, it runs out at about 1pm. Some even say it’s the best in PJ. So with no time to lose, I headed over there with some friends as food is never as good when eaten alone. This poky little hole in the wall can be difficult to spot although it is located along the roadside.

The setting was a little quiet as the shop was preparing to close for the afternoon in order to prepare for the night crowd. I spotted a few customers (all of them eating char kway teow) still halfway through their meal so I grabbed the opportunity to order a plate before the ‘kitchen’ closed. I ordered mine with extra chili, as I believe that every meal should leave your tongue burning a little. But it’s optional of course!

The stall is run by a husband and wife team. Both of them mainly understand Cantonese only, so I had to use more interpretive communication. But from what little conversation we had, I could tell that the wife is the more outgoing of the two. The husband cum ‘Char Kway Teow extraordinaire’ is a meek guy on the outside, but when standing in front of his well-seasoned wok, he transforms into a master of his art. We had to wait for about 10 minutes because this guy only fries two plates at a time, which I hear is the best control technique for frying perfect Char Kway Teow.

"A ‘must-have’ meal for any back street glutton"

And I’ve got tell you- it was definitely worth the wait! What appeared before us were steaming plates of Char Kway Teow, heaped with generous helpings of prawns, cockles, chives and crunchy bean sprouts. My nose was working over time in order to savour each and every delightful smell the dish had to offer.

I didn’t wait for the rest. I just tucked in. One bite was all it took for me to forget my friends and lapse into a steady pace of stuffing my face, with a dish that can only be described as indescribable. The cockles were cooked well with no muddy juices flowing out of them, the bean sprouts were crunchy and juicy, and the prawns had a fresh sweetness with a tinge of heat. The first bite gives you that charred smoky flavour which later becomes subtle with a slight kick from the chilli. I don’t know what makes it so special as the ingredients used are just the same as any other Char Kway Teow, yet the flavours here are more intense. I did try to ask the stall owners what their secret is, but given the communication barrier sadly I did not succeed. However, I did succeed in polishing off two plates in quick succession, and I am pint sized! That’s already a major hint of how good this Char Kway Teow really is.

As we left, the owner waved us off with a thumbs-up and a shy smile, and returned to cleaning up his stall. Although it was extremely difficult to communicate, great food breaks down barriers and in my opinion, this really is the best Char Kway Teow in PJ, and this humble couple really deserves the recognition.

Extra Info: After filling up on Char Kway Teow, head to assunta hospital and look for a man selling cendol outside the hospital itself His cendol pulut tastes a tad like sago gula Melaka, and a perfect salve for those whose tongues are still on fire.

Prices: RM 4 for a small plate and RM 5 for a large plate.


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