Tong Bee Stall

This off-the-beaten-track stall is a Malaccan institution for 40+ years with celebrities and regular folks lining up to sample its offerings. Everytime I come to Melaka I definitely try and find the time to come down here for some late night munchies...

By Li Ann

Photography by Kim Yoong, Wesson Ee

Posted on Tue, January 05, 2010 - 7:31:47 AM

5 Comments

The grimy lane is a mere inconvenience; loyal patrons still come in droves to sit on tiny stools and dine by the back alley behind the Jalan Bunga Raya shoplots. The bare lighting from the street lamps adds to the ambience and also distracts us from the less than spartan surroundings. This is as grubby as gutter grub gets…

The cause for this nightly madness is none other than Tong Bee’s cockles or ‘longkang siham’ as locals would call it. There is no proper system to scoring a seat amidst the waiting crowd. You just hang around until a seat vacates and plonk your butt on the next empty stool to stake your territory. It does not matter who arrives first because the owners are too busy to care. So cast all niceties aside, the rule is: Get your claws on the first available seat or go hungry. Be prepared for hungry stares from the waiting crowd as you triumphantly tuck into your food!

Other shellfish are also available like siput (snails) and lala (clams). The preparation is simple as these mollusks are simply boiled then served. Each diner will be given a plastic saucer of their secret dipping sauce along with a metal fork. I detect hints of ‘harkou’ (prawn paste), chilli sauce, peanuts and lime juice in it - definitely addictive. As our orders arrive, I understand why their siham is their bestseller. It’s very fresh and only requires quick boiling so it comes out plump and juicy. Combined with the sauce, I could easily polish off a plate on my own in no time.

"Plump and juicy cockles..."

Unfortunately the snails have sold out but we managed to secure 2 plates of clams. Not bad, but the fresh siham is the real winner. This stall also has an ingenious way to deal with the empty shells. Each rickety table is fitted with a plastic bucket (complete with a cutout hole in the middle to fit the bucket) to hold the discarded shells. Once a diner has vacated, the contents of the bucket is emptied before new patrons occupy the space.

We also topped our orders with plates of rojak and kangkung sotong. The blanched kangkung is done just right with the sotong having a nice bite to it. The sauce seems to share some semblance with the dipping sauce but it’s more spicy - perfect in marrying the ingredients together. As for the rojak, I have to say theirs is quite unique and a surprise find indeed. I spied the tofu puffs being grilled over a simple charcoal grill by the drain. It came out smoky and crispy, great for soaking up the sauce. There are also springy fish cakes, taukua and crisp yau cha kuai (fried crullers) in the concoction sprinkled with crushed peanuts. The sauce adds sweet, tart, salty and spicy notes to the dish… delish!

I noticed the retired patriarch perched on a stool nearby, quietly observing his children running the thriving business with speed and dexterity. The heydays of his youth may have passed, but his stall is still going strong. As we left, crowds continued to flock in, waiting for a taste of Melaka’s one and only longkang siham.

Operating hours: 7.30-11pm, closed on Sundays, eve of public holidays and holidays. Best to come before 9pm to avoid disappointment
Price: Cockles, clams- RM1.50, Sotong Kangkung- RM4- RM10

Pros: One of a kind street dining experience, endorsed by celebrities and various publications

Cons: A bit pricey for street food, less than hygienic conditions and packed to the brim

Address: Add: Off Jalan Bunga Raya (lorong on right after Madam King store), Melaka

Telephone: Alex Khoo 0126011621 / 0123607123 / 0176014011 /

suryasta
January 05, 2010 5:35PM GMT

When you eat shellfish and the shellfish doesnt open up when cooked, we are told not to eat it, why is that? what exactly is wrong with it?

Jon
January 05, 2010 6:40PM GMT

Suryasta - Cockles are alive, so when you cook them, they open up. Only the dead ones do not open. And it may have been dead for some time, so chances of getting a rotten one are pretty great.

suryasta
January 08, 2010 12:47PM GMT

Jon thanks for explaining So naturally as we cook shellfish they open up their shells

phyre
January 12, 2010 10:01AM GMT

was thinking to try this when i was in Melaka early Dec but cudn't find this place :(

Honey Ahmad
January 13, 2010 11:51AM GMT

Man you poor thing, next time give Alex a call and he'll direct you

You must be logged in to post comments

Sate Minang @ Pasar Malam Taman Melawati -- Indonesian : I used to frequent the pasar malam in Taman Melawati…

How-To Aid Digestion -- The Food Channel : Shiva from Indian Kitchen shares his knowledge on spices…

Hiestand Bakery -- Western : This little bakery is just the kind of place that is…

Cephalopod on Celluloid -- Food @ the Movies : I take great satisfaction in seeing a giant tentacled…

Alor Curry Mee -- Chinese (pork free) : “Okay, we only have an hour for dinner before we…

How-To Aid Digestion

1.10 mins

Simple steps to beat those tummy troubles

How-To Make the Perfect Burger

1.00 mins

So perfect you wouldn't believe it

Sexy Equipments by Electrolux

4.15 mins

A peek at the new products available soon at Electrolux

How-To Know Which Knife to Use

1.15 mins

It's important to know your knives

How-To Use A Coffee Press

1.00 mins

It's so easy with a coffee press

Alor Curry Mee -- “Okay, we only have an hour for dinner before we have to get back…

Hiestand Bakery -- This little bakery is just the kind of place that is packed with delicious…

Kak Laily Nasi Ayam Original -- It's hard to find halal nasi ayam hawkers that has been serving 'kai…

Bagan Lalang Seafood -- Bagan Lalang is a great place to relax, unwind, enjoy some fresh sea…

Kak Som -- You know the defining moment in Ratatouille? When Anton Ego the food…

Jarrod & Rawlins Dine for Charity -- News : Jarrod and Rawlins officially announced its charity…

Electrolux: A Glimpse of the Future -- New Launches : Electrolux kicked off the 2010 edition of their annual…

Meeting Laura Calder -- News : The sweet and lovely Laura Calder from AFC’s ‘French…

More Gastro News ›

The Last Polka Ice Cream -- Product Review : The one major gripe I have about good ice cream here…

Bialetti Moka Coffee Pot -- Product Review : Coffee drinks can be a bit expensive to have at cafés…

Maggi Goes Healthy with Atta Noodles -- Product Review : Maggi will be launching a new line of healthy instant…

More Gastro Stuff ›

Food, Trucks & Carts in New York -- Global Foodster : Sharing some experiences from the 4th Annual New York…

Durian Origami -- Design Delish : This project started when our new intern The Charlie…

Shuck and Suck ‘em -- Encounters : Shuckers ready? Suckers puckered? Grab an oyster. Loosen…

More Foodsters' Blog Entries ›

Craving for clam chowder : I've never been really satisfied… -- August 01, 2010 : 10:07 am

Tipping in restaurants for better service : I used to work in F&B;group.. the… -- August 01, 2010 : 10:05 am

Nasi Kerabu in KL/PJ : You can try Che Nah nasi kerabu,… -- August 01, 2010 : 09:55 am

Where is everybody? : we seem to get a lot more kemeriahness… -- July 25, 2010 : 07:01 pm

Kopi Luwak : -- July 22, 2010 : 07:12 pm