This off-the-beaten-track stall is a Malaccan institution for 40+ years with celebrities and regular folks lining up to sample its offerings. Everytime I come to Melaka I definitely try and find the time to come down here for some late night munchies...
The grimy lane is a mere inconvenience; loyal patrons still come in droves to sit on tiny stools and dine by the back alley behind the Jalan Bunga Raya shoplots. The bare lighting from the street lamps adds to the ambience and also distracts us from the less than spartan surroundings. This is as grubby as gutter grub gets…
The cause for this nightly madness is none other than Tong Bee’s cockles or ‘longkang siham’ as locals would call it. There is no proper system to scoring a seat amidst the waiting crowd. You just hang around until a seat vacates and plonk your butt on the next empty stool to stake your territory. It does not matter who arrives first because the owners are too busy to care. So cast all niceties aside, the rule is: Get your claws on the first available seat or go hungry. Be prepared for hungry stares from the waiting crowd as you triumphantly tuck into your food!
Other shellfish are also available like siput (snails) and lala (clams). The preparation is simple as these mollusks are simply boiled then served. Each diner will be given a plastic saucer of their secret dipping sauce along with a metal fork. I detect hints of ‘harkou’ (prawn paste), chilli sauce, peanuts and lime juice in it - definitely addictive. As our orders arrive, I understand why their siham is their bestseller. It’s very fresh and only requires quick boiling so it comes out plump and juicy. Combined with the sauce, I could easily polish off a plate on my own in no time.
"Plump and juicy cockles..."
Unfortunately the snails have sold out but we managed to secure 2 plates of clams. Not bad, but the fresh siham is the real winner. This stall also has an ingenious way to deal with the empty shells. Each rickety table is fitted with a plastic bucket (complete with a cutout hole in the middle to fit the bucket) to hold the discarded shells. Once a diner has vacated, the contents of the bucket is emptied before new patrons occupy the space.
We also topped our orders with plates of rojak and kangkung sotong. The blanched kangkung is done just right with the sotong having a nice bite to it. The sauce seems to share some semblance with the dipping sauce but it’s more spicy - perfect in marrying the ingredients together. As for the rojak, I have to say theirs is quite unique and a surprise find indeed. I spied the tofu puffs being grilled over a simple charcoal grill by the drain. It came out smoky and crispy, great for soaking up the sauce. There are also springy fish cakes, taukua and crisp yau cha kuai (fried crullers) in the concoction sprinkled with crushed peanuts. The sauce adds sweet, tart, salty and spicy notes to the dish… delish!
I noticed the retired patriarch perched on a stool nearby, quietly observing his children running the thriving business with speed and dexterity. The heydays of his youth may have passed, but his stall is still going strong. As we left, crowds continued to flock in, waiting for a taste of Melaka’s one and only longkang siham.
Man you poor thing, next time give Alex a call and he'll direct you
by Honey AhmadJanuary 13, 2010 11:51AM
was thinking to try this when i was in Melaka early Dec but cudn't find this place :(
by phyreJanuary 12, 2010 10:01AM
Jon thanks for explaining So naturally as we cook shellfish they open up their shells
by suryastaJanuary 08, 2010 12:47PM
Suryasta - Cockles are alive, so when you cook them, they open up. Only the dead ones do not open. And it may have been dead for some time, so chances of getting a rotten one are pretty great.
by JonJanuary 05, 2010 6:40PM
When you eat shellfish and the shellfish doesnt open up when cooked, we are told not to eat it, why is that? what exactly is wrong with it?
by suryastaJanuary 05, 2010 5:35PM
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Foodster's Verdict
Tong Bee Stall
Taste
Address:
Off Jalan Bunga Raya, Melaka (lorong on the right after Madam King store)
Tel: 012 601 1621 / 012 360 7123 / 017 601 4011 /
Open:
7.30-11pm, closed on Sundays, eve of public holidays and holidays. Best to come before 9pm to avoid disappointment
Pros:
One of a kind street dining experience, endorsed by celebrities and various publications
Cons:
A bit pricey for street food, less than hygienic conditions and packed to the brim
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Man you poor thing, next time give Alex a call and he'll direct you
by Honey Ahmad January 13, 2010 11:51AM
was thinking to try this when i was in Melaka early Dec but cudn't find this place :(
by phyre January 12, 2010 10:01AM
Jon thanks for explaining
So naturally as we cook shellfish they open up their shells
by suryasta January 08, 2010 12:47PM
Suryasta - Cockles are alive, so when you cook them, they open up. Only the dead ones do not open. And it may have been dead for some time, so chances of getting a rotten one are pretty great.
by Jon January 05, 2010 6:40PM
When you eat shellfish and the shellfish doesnt open up when cooked, we are told not to eat it, why is that? what exactly is wrong with it?
by suryasta January 05, 2010 5:35PM
You must be logged in to post comments