I have heard good things about this restaurant from friends and fellow foodies. One is “wo… the cendol at the end in a tiny bowl is just so delicious”. Another is, “fried egg is exactly how my mum used to cook it.” Walking along Tengkat Tong Shin with its colourful eateries and even more colourful hostels, it would be easy to walk past it. Yet after you enter and sit at its cheerful chequered tables and start relaxing, you wonder why you have never come here before.
Food here tastes homecooked. It’s not complicated or tries to be overly creative. It’s just simple cooking from Muar and has that delightful Chinese/Malay hybrid to it. For instance the sambal petai that comes with squid and prawns. It’s spicy yet not too much, it’s pungent without overpowering the subtle taste of seafood. It’s just tasty and you won’t even notice you are eating petai. After happily picking at this, the fried egg arrived.
And now let me extol the virtues of their signature fried egg. It comes in crispy pancake form with edges of the whites curling up in golden wisps. This is so freaking delicious we almost ordered it again. I reckon they must have a wok full of hot, hot oil and then just break open three eggs, letting the whites trail out, drawing patterns in the oil. Then they leave it to twirl and swirl until the edges curl and bubble up in ecstasy while still leaving the yolk a little runny. Then after lifting it sizzling onto a plate, they drizzle on thick soya sauce. Remember when you were a child and the best thing in the world is crispy fried egg and soya sauce? Muar Restaurant takes it to epic proportions.
They also have potato leaves; we had it simply fried with garlic. It’s sweet and savoury fresh from the wok. We also got deep fried butter kailan. We did not order this so we think it came with the Thai Style fish. I don’t know about you, but I love deep fried kailan. It’s crispy intertwined with some curry leaves and beans to add a little spiciness and texture to it and again has a natural sweetness when poured over hot white rice. All I can say folks it just gives you a happy feeling munching on this.
Finally came the fish cooked Thai-style (deep fried with this wonderful spicy-limey gravy poured over it). You can taste the freshness of the fish even though it’s deep fried and the sauce is wonderful. It tastes at times like a thick assam gravy and yet there’s other elements to it that almost makes it seem a little tomyam-like. Eat another mouthful and you can taste the subtle belacan and the sambal dimensions to it. Indeed a fantastic way to eat fish.
So after another bowl of rice, picking the bones clean off the fish and wiping the last bit of crunchy egg on the plate, it’s time to sit back and enjoy the night. The only desert on the menu is cendol and we think we know why. After such a yummy dinner you just want to savour the lingering tastes of it in your mouth. Cendol hits the spot perfectly. It cools you down from all that spice and gives you that sweet ending, a laid-back full stop at the end of a delicious sentence.
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