Pangkor is one of those island that has stood the test of time. It's still a laid-back no fuss island with great ikan bilis and sotong kering. True, there are a few more package tourists here than before, but the beach is still clean with some of the best swimming to be had in the Straits of Melaka.
Sunset and seafood for top bliss factor
195, Jalan Pasir Bogak,
Tel: 05 685 1881
Mon - Sat: 11am - 10:30pm
Sorry for the misleading front picture, there's no view to speak of- just a concrete basketball court
After lazing for about two days, a trip was in order for some fresh seafood out of the resort we were staying in. In Pangkor town, I've always remembered eating sweet and sour crabs and fish head broths. "You have to order the dried chilli crayfish here," said our van driver as he deposited us somewhere out of town.
Ye Lin has been around for decades but we've never been here before. Always game to try somewhere new, we settled in at a table laid with a fetching crumpled plastic tablecloth. All of us had skipped lunch, and were ravenous. The crayfish in question is actually pulled out of it's skin, deep fried in flour then cooked with spicy sauces and dried chillies. It is ridiculously good which bodes well for the sotong goreng tepung. Squid here is fresh, dipped in the same batter and fried quickly. It's crunchy and soft- everything you ever wanted from a sotong goreng tepung.
Other stuff we ordered were venison in ginger, yum! Soft and meaty to balance all the fishiness, some great seafood fried rice and steamed fish. We asked them to cook it tauchu style and it came in a thick sauce full of dark bean paste, scallions and chillies. The fish is nice and firm and the sauce has a spicy bite to it. I was a bit slow and by the time I got to the fish, there was only the crunchy gill area left (operculum) and the head. Lucky for me it's my favourite part!
There's also oyster omelette that's off menu. This was just okay, the oysters were a little small and skinny. I like mine chunky and hunky, a burst of the sea in my my mouth as I bite into it. Ah well can't be good at everything I guess. However, the thing about the sea air is that, everything just tastes that little bit better. My dad used to say that when any of us did not want to eat as a small child (this obviously did not include me), he would bring us to Pangkor and our appetites would just roar back to life.
While we were groaning and licking sauce off our fingers, a nice little old lady in a kebaya came out. Like restaurant hosts of old, she walks from table to table complimenting everybody in a raspy voice. "Wah! Your husband so handsome, and you so pretty..." stuff like that. Utterly charming. Apparently her daughter owns the restaurant but I'm sure most people come back to see her. After the meal we sauntered over to some shops, 500 meters away to gander at all manner of garish beach wear and dried sea creatures. The good food must have put me in an intensely good mood. I came back with 4 sarongs and 10 packets of satay fish and dried squid. Ah... the beach, where else can you act the fool and still feel good about yourself?